Silent
Auction
Our
auction was a great success last year and those who participated want us to
hold another auction this year. A
summary of last year’s event follows in this newsletter. We found that those who were directly involved
in the auction had a better idea about how to determine bids, so we encourage
your participation! We need members
to donate plants for this auction but they need to be limited to newer or
proven named varieties. All types
of irises can be included, with the name, type, and a short description being
sent to Robb Smith, 405 Walker’s Hook Road, Salt Spring Island, BC
V8K 1N7 or resmith@saltspring.com. Also, please send a photograph of the plant
if you have one. Robb needs this information
by March 15 as it will be posted on our website and mailed out to members
in early April. Those who donate
plants will eventually be required to send their plants to the successful
bidder. The buyer will pay the shipping
costs. Plants that receive no bids
will remain the property of the donor.
Joint
Plant Purchase
Members
would like to make joint iris purchases for access to more kinds and varieties
at reduced costs. It has been decided
to make this purchase from Aitken’s Salmon Creek Gardens, 608 NW 119
St., Vancouver, Washington 98685 since they have a very good selection of
irises.
If
you wish to participate in this joint purchase either write to Aitken’s for
a catalogue or go to their website at www.flowerfantasy.net. Their 2007 catalogue should be available in
April. You must order by July 1 with
payment in US dollars at the time you order. You must also note on your order
form that it is a BCIS Joint Plant Purchase. Do not include any funds for
the Phytosanitary Certificate or shipping as Ted Baker will pick up the plants
the first week in August and mail them to you from Salt Spring.
Memberships
Joyce Prothero (281 Cudmore Heights, Salt Spring Island,
BC. V8K 2J7 or jprothero@saltspring.com) is our new
membership clerk. If you wish to renew
your membership or want to become a member please contact Joyce. Membership fees are $15 for a single person
or $16 for a family or organization and are due in May. Multiple year payment
is accepted.
Minutes
of the Members Annual Meeting
The
minutes of BC Iris meeting on Nov. 18, 2006 have been included on the website.
If you don’t have internet service and would like a copy of the minutes, please
request that a copy be mailed to you: Dee
Fitton, 131 Beachside Drive,
Salt
Spring Island, BC, V8K 2L2 or fitton@saltspring.com.
Local Garden Tours and Events
If
you would like to hold a local garden tour or other event, please send the
information to Ted Baker and we will include it in the member mailing in April.
For example, BCIS members on Salt Spring are holding a garden workshop
session on May 29th. We have invited the New Members Group and
the Iris Interest Group from the local Garden Club.
Of course all BCIS members are invited to attend as well.
Also,
if you wish to have a speaker or other ‘iris’ activity in your area, BCIS
funds can be used to cover expenses. Just
let the Executive know so they can approve the expenditures before
the event takes place.
BCIS
Donation to Government House
During
2006, BCIS donated 66 irises to Government House in Victoria. This included
14 bearded varieties and four Siberian varieties. These irises will
be used to enhance their already extensive collection of irises. This year
we hope to do something similar for the Tofino Botanical Gardens.
If
you know of a botanical or other public garden near you that could benefit
from a donation of irises, please check it out. This is an excellent
way to promote this wonderful plant.
BCIS Garden Tours 2006
About
80 BCIS members and some friends enjoyed three garden tours this past
year during iris bloom time. The tours allowed us to learn more
about irises and how to grow them; to get to know other BCIS members; and
to
enjoy the gardens we visited.
May
17: Royston / Comox
The
first tour was on May 17 in the Royston/ Comox area of Vancouver
Island. We started at the garden of Joan Walsh. This was
a garden of many
plants we do not often see grown in this area. Joan comes from Manitoba
and
decided the climate was so good she could try to grow anything and grow they
did! She wraps some zone 9 plants but others have done well in her sheltered
garden on the beach. We only saw one iris (bearded) growing in Joan's
garden but our visit was most useful and interesting.
We then visited the garden of Derek and Sally Gardener. They
have
transformed a large lot into a most inviting space. We entered the back
garden through a gate with a raised perennial bed on the left. There
was a
mix of bearded irises and Siberians scattered throughout the garden.
As it
was early, only the shorter, bearded types were in bloom but they made a
good display. The garden also features a pond with an interesting fountain
made by Derek out of metal taps. We also saw a productive vegetable
garden
and berry patch as well as some interesting trees. For the past two
years
Derek and Sally have strung a series of CDs over their berries to eliminate
bird predation.
Lunch
in Lynn Powell's garden [Lynn is standing]
Lynn Powell then welcomed us to her garden: a long lane opens
up into an expansive lawn containing a variety of beds and borders of perennials
with irises being the feature plant. The Standard Dwarf Bearded irises
were making a wonderful show. Particularly nice were established clumps of
HEATHER CARPET, a warm purple with lilac beards; FOREVER BLUE, pale blue violet
with darker beards; PIPILONGSTOCKINGS, pale yellow with a maroon fall spot;
RUBY ERUPTION, ruby red plicata markings over bright yellow ground; KLINGON
PRINCESS, wide, ruffled, and flared yellow with khaki and dusty violet beard;
and WAKEUP, which was a very
bright yellow. RARE EDITION, a white Intermediate Bearded with dark violet
edged petals was also making a nice show. Tables and chairs had been set out
in the shade of tall Douglas-firs where we had a short meeting and enjoyed
a picnic lunch. As we left, we were fortunate to be able to buy plants
from Lynn's small plant nursery.
The
next garden we visited was the creation of Shirley Ross, a garden on
a city lot transformed into a very pleasant environment. The backyard
is a mix of lawn, perennial borders and a vegetable garden. In one corner
of the yard, several tall trees, Hostas and other shade plants convey a woodsy
feeling. While there were a few yellow and purple Median bearded irises
blooming, the iris 'star' of the garden was a large clump of Iris cristata
that drew much attention. This very short violet and white crested iris
formed a wonderful mat of bloom.
Many of us then went to Kitty Coleman's garden north of Courtney.
This is a large private garden open to the public for a modest charge. It
is primarily a Rhododendron garden and they were in peak bloom. This
woodland garden contains many ponds and water features. We were able
to enjoy beautiful vistas of trees, ponds, fountains and Rhododendrons--all
providing wonderful colour. A grouping of Lem's Monarch was outstanding,
with stunning trusses of red which paled at the throat. Although it was early
in the season for an abundance of iris in bloom, everyone who attended enjoyed
the day. It was especially good to meet the members from the area and to share
experiences about growing irises.
June
3: Salt Spring Island
We
visited six Salt Spring Island gardens on June 3. The weather was perfect,
as it was on all the tours.
The
garden of May Henderson took us back in time with spacious vistas of
beds of perennial favourites. There were several clumps of Siberians
in
bloom, adding much interest to the garden experience. We wandered past mixed
borders containing native plants. The cedar and driftwood gates and fences
were special.
Barb Archer is
on the left
We then traveled to the home and garden of Barb Archer and Rob Oliver.
The first impact of this garden is one of abundance. Barb has used combinations
of large and interesting plants to make a very special place. Grasses
are used to advantage. Tall bearded irises blooming included HELLO DARKNESS,
a very dark black purple; and NIGHT RULER, also a deep black purple that is
very ruffled. There was also a lovely clump of WHITE MAGNIFICENCE, a
white Siberian. Throughout the garden are benches and other seating
areas where we were able to enjoy our lunch. Barb provided drinks and
some desserts, and we had a short meeting before traveling to our next garden…
Ray Spiers (left) and Joyce Prothero (second from right)
….where
we were fortunate enough to see several clumps of yellow, blue, and reddish-pink
Pacific Coast irises in bloom at the garden of Joyce and John Prothero.
These plants were mostly grown from seed by Joyce and were doing very well
in this woodland setting. Joyce has transformed their driveway into
a linear garden, the only part of their property receiving enough sun. We
also learned about her wonderful collection of heathers. Joyce generously
gave Pacific Coast seedlings she had started to visitors who wanted them.
Ray
and Pat Spiers did extensive stonework in their garden.
The walls make a perfect place
for BCIS members to enjoy the view.
Ray and Pat Spier's garden was another wonderful
treat. While the five ponds with streams and waterfalls make a major
impact in the garden, the plantings are also impressive. Tall bearded
irises were scattered throughout, with a nice clump of CLASSIC LOOK, a white
with a medium violet blue edge on both the standards and falls. There was also a beautiful clump of SHAKER’S
PRAYER, a Siberian, strategically framed by a pond. Other Siberians were quite
at home in this wonderful garden.
We
next went to Sonja and Ted Baker's garden and were met by a half-acre
of tall bearded irises in full bloom along the driveway. There were
many more TBs, Medians and Siberians in the garden around the house.
Some tall bearded irises in bloom included HAPPENSTANCE, a lovely pink; SECRET
SERVICE, tan standards and near black falls with an orange beard; SPLASHACATA,
the Dykes Medal winner for 2005 with pale blue standards and pale blue falls
heavily peppered with purple; and DANGEROUS MOOD, pale blue standards with
nearly black falls. Medians included BORDER GUARD (Border Bearded),
oyster standards and cocoa pink falls; and SONJA'S SELAH (BB), warm white
with peach pink fall patch. Clumps of Siberians in bloom included STRAWBERRY
FAIR, very flared, lavender pink with a gold and white signal; CARELESS
SALLY, rounded, ruffled blend of rose, blue and yellow; and BLUEBERRY FAIR,
ruffled mid-lavender blue with a white signal. Ted gave a short talk
about growing irises.
The last stop was the garden of Elaine Potter, whose garden takes one
back in time. Everyone felt comfortable to see a pile of recently picked
weeds near a path! The garden sits in the middle of the forest and is relaxed in the afternoon sun. Seagull,
a very fragrant small flowered white rose from the early 1900s climbed up
and over the barn. Beardless irises were mixed with perennials in a
variety of beds. A magnificent clump of HOLDEN CLOUGH, a pseudacorus
cross of yellow with extensive brown veining, held forth near the middle of
the garden. Two Siberians were also showing well: PERRY'S BLUE,
the first introduced Siberian hybrid was lovely with tall stocks and delicate
flowers of pale blue; the other Siberian was a blue species form.
June
10: Chilliwack
The third and final 2006 BCIS Garden Tour was held in the Chilliwack area
on June 10. Unfortunately, only a few members were able to attend but
everyone who did felt it was very worthwhile. The two members’ gardens we
visited are “must see” gardens for anyone interested in Siberian irises.
When we arrived at the home of Henry and Molly Pauls, there were many
other people there on a local garden event known as “The Ramble.” Siberians
were being featured on this BCIS tour and this garden was filled with an abundance
of early and mid-blooming Siberians. The term 'garden rooms' took on
a new meaning as we moved from one forested clearing to another to view vistas
of these wonderful plants in bloom. Early varieties--including PLEASURES
OF MAY, pale lavender and pink; DANCING NANOU, blue violet self with darker
violet edge; PINK HAZE, pink lavender; RANMAN, six fall pink; and TEMPER TANTRUM,
rosy violet with blue at the fall center; and dozens of other varieties--were at their peak. Later blooming
varieties including DREAMING YELLOW, very pale yellow; and DIRIGO BLACK VELVET,
very dark blue purple with white and gold signals were showing hundreds of
buds on strong plants. Henry was selling potted irises, trees, shrubs, and
perennials at very reasonable prices.
Henry
Pauls in his iris patch.
Next stop was Minter Gardens and the plantings were in top condition.
Among the borders were Tall Bearded and Siberian irises, mostly past their
prime but still adding colour. There was a very nice clump of Iris versicolor
beside one of the paths and various varieties of Iris pseudacorus were flowering
well in some of the pondscapes.
Cross Wind Garden, operated by Ali van Klie and Lynn Griffith, was
the final stop on this tour. This two-acre garden is well laid out and
neat as a pin, showing the plants for sale to good advantage. Again, Siberians
were the feature plant of this garden. Varieties for sale were planted
in rows at the back of the property, with some newer varieties and other types
of iris grown near the front. This is an early garden situated on the Fraser
River flood plain. Here we saw a wonderful show of later blooming Siberian
varieties including KING OF KINGS, a wonderful white; and PRARIE WARBLER,
a pale greenish yellow with brown spots. ON AND ON, which will be violet
with a white signal was putting up new stocks and two spureas were blooming.
Ali and Lynn also had plants for sale at very reasonable prices so we all
left with new varieties to add to our collections.
Members of BCIS and friends who attended the 2006 Garden Tours would like
to extend our sincere appreciation to all those who opened their gardens for
us
to visit. We look forward to the 2007 tours.
What You Always Wanted to Know About the Silent Auction
“Fun”
“A
learning experience!”
“We
definitely need to do it again!”
Comments
from those who participated in the BCIS Silent Auction this year encourage
us to go forward. The information presented here will tell you how the auction
works, show how the process is fair and describe how to bid if you want to
get involved in future auctions.
The
auction helps raise money for BCIS to keep membership fees low and enable
us to have speakers come in to teach and entertain. It is also an opportunity
for members to acquire newer or unusual varieties at a reasonable price. This
year, Ted Baker paid for the phytosanitary certificates ($25) and transported
plants from the U.S. to save shipping costs. Terry and Barbara Aitken
of Aitken’s Salmon Creek Garden generously arranged to donate all of their
2006 bearded iris introductions to BCIS.
Many thanks to Terry, Barbara, and Marky Smith, Bruce Filardi,
Anton Mego, Ken Fisher, Jean Witt, and Bennett Jones
who introduce their irises through Aitken’s Salmon Creek Garden and donated
their plants to BCIS.
No
one had any idea what the plants would sell for, so everyone developed unique
bidding strategies. Bids were sent
in by e-mail or snail mail. Some bids were sent in sealed envelopes so we
did not know who bid what until Pat Parkes and Ted Baker opened the
bids on July 31. No bids were accepted
by phone. We are listing the results below to give you a better idea what
to expect if you want to bid in future auctions.
The successful bids vary greatly as some varieties received only one
bid while the more popular plants had as many as four bids.
All plants were sold. In the
future, if there is a tie bid the plant will go to the bid received first.
Listed
are the variety name, type (TB, BB, MTB, IB, STB, MDB), the winning bid, and
the catalogue price in U.S. dollars in brackets.
|
Variety
|
Type
|
Winning Bid
(CDN)
|
Catalogue Price
(USD)
|
|
Bon
Appetit
|
TB
|
25.00
|
50.00
|
|
Frosty
Moonscape
|
TB
|
50.00
|
40.00
|
|
Pewter
And Gold
|
TB
|
50.00
|
45.00
|
|
Slovak
Sapphire
|
TB
|
5.00
|
45.00
|
|
Some
Enchanted Evening
|
TB
|
10.00
|
45.00
|
|
Tropical
Evening
|
TB
|
15.00
|
45.00
|
|
Dark
Top Strutter
|
BB
|
10.00
|
25.00
|
|
Love
Power
|
BB
|
20.00
|
25.00
|
|
Look
Here
|
MTB
|
18.00
|
20.00
|
|
Red
Rock Princess
|
MTB
|
25.00
|
20.00
|
|
Stitched
In Blue
|
MTB
|
10.00
|
20.00
|
|
Aeronaut
|
IB
|
15.00
|
20.00
|
|
Cayenne
|
IB
|
15.00
|
20.00
|
|
Fresh
Insight
|
IB
|
10.00
|
20.00
|
|
Absolute
Joy
|
SDB
|
16.00
|
15.00
|
|
Artful
Tradition
|
SDB
|
10.00
|
15.00
|
|
Mosaic
|
SDB
|
11.00
|
15.00
|
|
Pinch
Me
|
SDB
|
5.00
|
10.00
|
|
Pink
Latte
|
SDB
|
5.00
|
15.00
|
|
Shallows
|
SDB
|
13.00
|
15.00
|
|
Applet
|
MDB
|
5.00
|
15.00
|
|
Stripling
|
MDB
|
5.00
|
15.00
|
Some
irises went far below their catalogue price while others went for slightly
more. It appears that if you want
a particular plant, you should be prepared to pay for it as they can go for
a high price. On the other hand, you
could have bid $7 on all the plants and picked up five excellent irises at
far below their catalogue value.
Remember,
the sale is for a good cause! Total revenue was $348 and those who took part
had fun and want another auction next year.
To
make this year’s auction a success, check your iris patch and give Robb Smith
a call!
Managing My Iris Patch
Ted Baker
There
are many ways to grow good irises depending on your garden conditions. This would include soil type and condition,
site characteristics--including sun exposure and slope--and other differences
experienced between and within gardens. Also,
much of what I do is specific for coastal areas and needs to be adjusted to
accommodate conditions in other locations.
Our
garden on Salt Spring Island has a range of site conditions that require some
consideration when growing irises and other plants. For example, we grow irises on an east-facing slope that welcomes
the early morning sun, so the plants dry quickly and the amount of fungus
is reduced in these areas. I have
to be more careful about the varieties I plant and keep the beds clean in
those areas where the sun, blocked by trees, arrives later in the day.
In
early spring, I start by making sure the iris beds are free of weeds and other
debris. This reduces the chance of disease and damage by slugs, and ensures
that soil nutrients feed the iris and not the weeds. Keep an eye out for any slug damage throughout the year but especially
as the plants start to grow. I started
using the new Safer’s Slug Bait two years ago since it is not toxic to pets
and birds. Very little is required
and, when scattered sparingly, it does not go moldy. It lasts at least two
weeks even in rainy weather. This past year we had very few slugs, indicating
the slug population was significantly reduced.
Our
soil pH is less than 6.00--on the acidic side for many plants including bearded
irises--but I do not lime and they grow fine. As soon as the plants start
to show about 3-4 inches of growth, I fertilize with Evergro 10-15-19 Vegetable
& Tomato Food. Conventional advice
states that we should never use any fertilizer with a nitrogen number higher
than 5 for irises; however, I have found that this is not enough nitrogen
to produce the best results for the amount of rainfall we receive on the coast.
Some forms of nitrogen are mobile and leach out of the soil quite quickly;
after our winter rains, some nitrogen is welcomed by the plants.
Always
buy fertilizers which contain micronutrients whenever possible. The Evergro
fertilizer I use contains micronutrients including boron and sulphur. When fertilizing, one is usually advised to
be careful not to spread any on the rhizomes as this can burn them and cause
rot. This is possible if you only have a few plants; however, with the number
of plants I grow, I just scatter it throughout the beds and only a very few
fans rot. I fertilize when the buds
can be felt coming up in the fan of leaves or when the bud shows just above
the fan. If it is done later, it is too late to help during the time when
the plant needs most nutrients to push up the stalk and produce maximum sized
blooms. After bloom is finished, I fertilize again if plants show the need.
I look for healthy, vigorous growth with good colour, but not so lush and
soft that the plants are subject to disease. This is a subjective assessment,
but back on the farm my Dad always said, “It was the eye of the farmer that
fattened the cattle”-- you couldn't just use a formula to make it happen.
When
fertilizing, it is important to watch your plants to make sure they are not
over-fertilized. If mine are doing
well, I generally reduce the amount of fertilizer I give them each time and
as a result the iris in the sandy soils get more fertilizer than the others. I also check for leaf spot and, if it is a
problem, I spray with a fungicide (you can use the same fungicide as used
for roses).
As
the weather becomes warmer and the soil moisture is depleted, I start to water
all my gardens at a rate of one inch per week. (Just use a few tin cans spread
throughout the area being watered and then stop when you have enough water.
I have calibrated my sprinklers by determining how long it takes for them
to put out one inch and subsequently just water for that length of time.)
This is done once each week to ensure the water soaks deeply into the root
zone of the plants.
Ted Baker’s Irises Cut Back
for Winter
As
the bearded iris begin to bloom, I deadhead, especially in wet weather to
reduce the chance of the stalks falling down in a wind. This also improves
the overall appearance of irises. As
a stalk finishes blooming, break or cut it off at ground level where the stalk
connects with the rhizome. The old
rhizome will not bloom again but will send up new rhizomes at the back and
sides for future bloom. Cut out any
diseased or dying leaves and, if possible, continue to water throughout the
summer. Watering helps produce better bloom the following
year. If your soil is poor and you
cannot water, don’t worry--your plants should still bloom but will be shorter.
Moving
irises is not my favourite thing to do, so after they bloom I check the clumps
to see if they are too crowded. If
they are, I use a dandelion tool to take out the old rhizomes and any others
that are too crowded to give the remaining rhizomes room to grow. Also, this is the time I move some plants to
new beds and rejuvenate old beds. To
do this, I dig to a depth of about 18 inches (less for Median irises), sifting
out the rocks as necessary, and incorporate a generous amount of compost in
the top foot of soil. I plant the
rhizomes of the same variety about 12 inches apart and different varieties
about 18 inches apart. The Siberians
are then mulched with about three inches of compost to retain water and prevent
weed growth. Some compost can be added
as mulch to bearded iris plantings but only between the clumps and not touching
the rhizomes, since the mulch can cause rot. I never put woodchips on the
bed but use non-cedar chips on the paths between the beds, as I have seen
evidence of slowed growth--possibly due to the build up of toxic substances
or fungal growth from the wood.
In
the fall, I cut back the fans to about 6 to 8 inches and do the final weeding.
The bearded clippings are piled for future burning to prevent the spread
of fungal diseases while the Siberians and other beardless clippings are composted. It is best to cut the plants back in late October
or early November when they have stopped growing. If this is done too early, the rhizomes will not grow to full size
and next year’s bloom could be affected.
In
the winter months, I check out the notes and photos I have collected over
the past year. Then it is time to
go over my wish list and to enjoy the iris catalogues as they start to arrive. In the spring, the cycle repeats for yet another
year.
If
you have any questions about what I have written, please contact me at [250]
653 4430 or tedebaker@shaw.ca.
Okanagan Update
Penny Santosham
It’s
September 15th and rain has finally arrived, so I‘ve hung my pitchfork
in the shed and picked up a pen to write this first OK report for the next
BCIS newsletter.
My Windy Lakeside Garden - Zone 3
Yesterday,
a package of 13 reblooming irises arrived from the Maritimes and were quickly
tucked into bed and mulched with pine needles. I’ve found that labeling with
a grease pen on old venetian blinds lasts well in our climate. Meanwhile, two mystery irises from a friend
have headed up and will hopefully get a chance to flower. It’s 75 F now but we could get a freeze anytime.
I had 20 TB irises in June and now I have 200, so over the summer every garden
bed had to be reorganized with irises as the star performers. Thanks to advice
from Anna Smith in Cawston, I even made two successful TB crosses.
The 89 seeds are now in the fridge for an artificial 60-day winter. With a
little luck, I’ll have some interesting babies next year. Do you think Ted is right when he says I’ve
caught the IRIS BUG?
Okanagan Group
At
the beginning of 2006, I knew no Irisarians and now have 14 in our Okanagan
area. It was a great help when Jurgen
Hansen, the local garden columnist, wrote two articles about irises and
included contact info for me as a BCIS rep. Thanks to a gal at Art Knapp’s
Garden Center and my posters, the word got out. I discovered Anme Sing
in Keremeos who has a gorgeous garden with 450 TBs. She and I collaborated
on a joint fundraiser and made $100 for the BCIS. Harold Baumbrough
in Naramata has about 250 TB irises in his unique hillside garden overlooking
Okanagan Lake. All summer he has generously delivered bags of rhizomes for
our group to share. Warren Carrington-Hill in Princeton is a gold mine
of information and encouragement. For example, I mentioned to him that I would
like to find out about Dykes Medal winners and a few days later he brought
me a copy of his 60-page colour illustrated DM binder. Warren also donated
irises to OK members as well as raising $78.00 for BCIS through the website
marketplace. It’s been a very rewarding year--gaining wonderful new friends
as well as new irises.
2007 OK Plans
This
year I’ve focused on members within 150 km (Summerland to Princeton), manageable
as a Southern satellite. In the next few months, I will re-contact
garden clubs and newspaper columnists in Vernon and Kelowna and try to find
a keen Northern coordinator. Jurgen is going to include BCIS information in
articles he writes for two publications in those areas. Most of our current OK members took photos
of their irises this year in order to name and label them in readiness for
a trade & share get-together next summer.
We’ll also meet for garden tours: I have at least three in mind for
the BCIS Okanagan Garden Tour on June 2.The lunch stop will be at a beautiful
new 9.5-acre perennial garden & nursery in Kaleden, 15 minutes south of
Penticton. I hope many BCIS members will join us.
Last Words
Did
you know about the new, free, Canada Post program for small businesses? (Warren
told me about it.) I’ve been sending heritage rhizomes here and there and
signed up as “Pickadilly Iris”! More
about the program, alfalfa tea, and an update on my baby hybrids in the next
newsletter.
Moraeas
Robb Smith
Moraea
is a large genus within the iris family from sub-Saharan Africa, with 119
species recognized. If you were to
see a flower of a Moraea in isolation, you would probably not be able to distinguish
it from an iris--they have the same three large outer tepals and smaller inner
tepals, except that the tepals are free to the base in Moraea whereas they
are united into a tube in irises.
Over
a dozen Moraeas can be grown on the Pacific Coast with little effort, but
they have to be selected with attention to their climatic needs. First, we can exclude all the species from
a true Mediterranean climate found in the southwestern Cape.
Next,
we can exclude all the tropical species; and those from coastal and lowland
areas of South Africa where there are no frosts. Restricting conditions a little further, we look only to the middle
altitudes of Natal and Lesotho--above 1500 meters or so, where winter temperatures
of -5C or lower are experienced and winter hardiness isn't an issue.
Additionally for us, ours is a dry summer/wet winter environment, so
lastly we look for species that grow beside streams or in wet grasslands.
These are the only Moraeas that can tolerate our winter conditions. Here are some highlights of the ones that meet
our requirements:
Moraea elliotii: Small blue-violet
flowers and solitary foliage leaf near base. Plant height up to 50 cm.
Moraea natalensis: Small blue-purple
flowers and solitary leaf near top of the flower stem. Plant height up to 45 cm.
Moraea inclinata: Medium blue-purple
flowers and single leaf well above ground on a stem which leans strongly towards
the ground. Plant height up to 90
cm.
Moraea stricta: Small blue-violet
flowers preceding a single leaf. Plants less than 25 cm tall when in flower.
Moraea alpina: Flowers similar
to M. stricta, but even smaller. Late
flowering. Very small plants (under
12 cm)
Moraea trifida: Small cream to
dull yellow flower with unusual trilobed inner tepals. Single foliage leaf inserted above the ground.
Plant height up to 55 cm.
Moraea brevistyla: Small white flowers
and solitary foliage leaf just above ground level. Plant height 35 cm.
Moraea albicuspa: Large cream to
white flowers in which the inner tepals are reduced to needle-like cusps.
Single long thin leaf. Plant height
up to 60 cm.
Moraea dracomontana: Blue-purple flowers
with short slender inner tepals. Single
leaf. Plants small (to 30 cm.)
Moraea modesta: Small, inconspicuous
plant with small inconspicuous pale blue flowers.
Moraea carnea: Creamy yellow
to pale pink flowers and a long solitary foliage leaf. Plant height to 50 cm.
Moraea ardesiaca: Large slate-blue
to mauve flowers. Fairly large plants,
to 70 cm.
Moraea graminicola: Smallish flowers
pale yellow to gray. Early blooming,
from relatively low altitudes. Plant
height to 60 cm.
Moraea spathulata: Flowers bright
yellow with deep yellow nectar guides. Large
plants, to 1 m. tall.
Moraea alticola: Flowers pale
yellow with deep yellow nectar guides. Large
plants, to 1 m. tall.
Moraea robusta: Large pale yellow
flowers on relatively small plants, to 40 cm. tall.
Moraea huttonii: Scented bright yellow flowers with deeper yellow
nectar guides and a brown to purple blotch on each style crest. Semi-aquatic habitat. Plant height to 1 m.
I
have a few of these in my garden, growing in good soil and given about an
inch of water each week during July and August. Flowering takes place between
mid-June and the end of July. No fertilizers
are used. I don't know that the supplementary
watering is absolutely necessary, but I expect that flowering might suffer
during a long dry spell.
Complete
details on all the species of Moraea can be found in the monograph The
Moraeas of Southern Africa by Peter Goldblatt, 1986.
You
probably won't find any Moraeas for sale at your local nursery. If you want to try growing them, you will have
to grow them from seed. By far the
largest selection is available at Silverhill Seeds in Capetown. They have a web site with on-line
Ordering
at www.silverhillseeds.co.za Seeds
should be started in the spring, and are not difficult to germinate. I have always kept mine in a frost-free greenhouse
over the first winter but with no watering. They go dormant at some point over the winter,
and are transferred to a garden situation in the spring. Flowering usually only begins in the third
year.
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Moraea
alticola
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Moraea
brevistyla
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Moraea
spathulata
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Moraea photos: Robb Smith]
Irises of Series
Laevigatae: The Water Irises
Pat Parkes
When we think of ponds and water gardens, what usually
comes to mind is clear, reflective water, with a surface patterned by water
lily leaves and their flowers, and some mixed vegetation at the margins.
However, water lilies are not the only queens of the
pond and if water-loving iris species are thickly planted along the banks
and in the water at pond’s edge, they can rival any flower display put on
by the water lilies.
After flowering,
the leaves of water-loving irises become part of the verdant backdrop against
which the water lilies bloom. With many different leaf shapes, heights and
colours, and great variety in flower form and hue, irises add textural and
chromatic richness to the pond surrounds. Their thick leafy fans also provide
cover at the water’s edge for small birds to drink and bathe, and provide
cool moist haunts for frogs and salamanders. The leaves also become a place
for emergent nymphs to leave their aquatic environment, shed their skins and
become shining new dragonflies. In the autumn, the leaves take on soft golden
colours and look beautiful rimed with frost or, in the winter, dusted or mounded
with snow.
The most common water iris, the one most people recognize,
is Iris pseudacorus. Introduced from Europe, it has naturalized
and now grows throughout North America. It belongs to the series laevigatae
along with Irises laevigata, versicolor, virginica and
their hybrids. They all grow well in moist, fertile, acidic soil, in marshy
areas and with water over their crowns. If potted and grown in ornamental
ponds, they should be fertilized in the early spring when growth commences,
just before blooming, and again after the bloom has finished. Commercial water
lily tablets (Pondtabs), Nutracote, or even tomato stakes can be used as fertilizer.
Iris ensata also belongs to this series, but has
different soil and water requirements. Soil and water must be acidic (pH 5-6.5)
and the plants must not be allowed to dry out. However, unlike the other members
of this series, they will not tolerate standing water when winter dormant.
They are best planted beside streams or ponds with their crowns above the
water table. For ornamental ponds they may be potted and placed in water after
growth commences in the spring, but should be removed from the water in the
fall, after growth slows. The whole pot can be removed to a cool greenhouse
or buried in the ground until the next spring.
All of these irises are hardy to zone 3, but will need
mulching and snow covering in colder areas. Care should be taken when introducing
them into ponds that are connected to other watercourses as all have seeds
that spread by floatation. Removal of spent seed capsules prevents them from
seeding into garden areas or into other pots or bog areas in ornamental ponds.
Some of the Iris pseudacorus species and hybrids
that do well naturalized or in ornamental ponds are:
I. pseudacorus: a tall (70-100cm), robust plant with deep yellow
flowers and brown veining on the falls.
